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Zip Zap Madness and Mods

Radio Shack recently introduced a series of 1/64 miniature radio-controlled cars called Zip Zaps. These mini-rc cars have wildly exceeded sales expectations, as thousands of people flocked to the local Rat Shack to snarf Zip Zaps off the shelves. For $19.95 you get a complete car and controller, and accessories, such as a carrying case, extra body shells, track layout, turbo motor kits, tools, rally course kits, and collector's case all cost under $15. Here are a few quick modfications and projects for Zip Zaps. Each project is in keeping with the price cost of the Zip Zap, and either cost under $10 or nothing at all if you have the parts.

Controller Mod

The Zip Zap controller has two buttons used for forward/reverse and left/right motion. Extended play can be hard on your hands, so I modified the controller for better handling. This modification adds a joystick to each button. You can use DB9 RS232 hood bolts (used to secure the hood to a PC) or mobo standoffs. I drilled a hole in each button of the zz controller. Hint: tap a starter depression in each button using the hot tip of a soldering iron; this will prevent the drill bit from sliding around when you start a drill, and ensures a perfectly centered hole. Drill slowly! A cordless drill on slow speed is perfect. I then screwed each bolt into the holes; note that you don't have to screw 'em in all the way, 'cause a little height is nice. I then took two small rubber feet (salvaged from the bottom of some electronic appliance long ago), threaded two smaller bolts through the feet, and screwed 'em into the top of each bolts from the DB9 hood. The result is a pair of nice, soft joysticks for the controller - and a lot more comfortable play action... not bad for free! Here is one approach with soft feet. Here is another using IBM TrackPoint caps.

LED Mod and Switch

Using LEDs in the Zip Zaps is easy. But part of the problem is using a switch to turn the LEDs on or off. One the best ways is to use tape directly on a small lithium battery, but this is a pain, as you have to take the body shell on or off to turn the LEDs on or off.  A simpler approach is to use a two-pin mobo jumper as a switch. Here's a view of the first switch I used in the on positiion. Here's a view of the same switch off.

Battery Mod

The Zip Zaps come with a 100Mah Nimh battery, which generally provides a couple minutes' runtime on a 45-second charge on the controller. You can get a bit longer runtime by double-charging the Zip; charge, then remove for 10 seconds and charge again.  However, you can replace the 100 with a 120Mah battery, which costs about $2, and get longer runtimes, especially if you double-charge. Here's a picture showing the difference between the two batteries, with the 100 on the left and the 120 on the right. Note the mobo pin switch on the PT Cruiser.

Simple Lap Counter

I wanted a simple lap counter, but the current crop of lap counters for slots and R/C cars are too expensive. Here is a simple lap counter that can cost as little as $9 or less. The first step is to get an LCD counter. Radio Shack used to offer one for $14 or so, but like many other items in the company's haste to become the next Sharper Image or Brookstone (read: loser stores), it has been  dropped from the catalog. Fortunately, there are alternatives! Use an inexpensive step pedodemter! You can get 'em cheap, but if you want advanced features, such as backlighting, a clock, timer, and so on, you can! These counters are available nearly anywhere: Target, Sports Authority, Dick.'s Sporting Goods, etc. Interestingly enough, I couldn't find any at Wally World's on-line store (Wal-mart). Use a step counter, not a distance calculating step counter.  Step counters are used to well, count steps, but in our case here, to count laps! Here's a higher-end counter you could use (about $5 more than the one in this project). Drill a hole in the back of the counter after you crack the case. You'll see where to solder the connections for the switch wires. You can then bolt the counter onto a stand. I ran wires out the back like this. Here's the counter I used, showing the tacky artwork I glued to the front. Here's the counter mounted on a plexiglass stand. To increment the counter, use a switch. Some folks use a reed switch, while others use fancier IrDA or Ir photo transistors and lasers. Here's my no-cost switch and how it is connected.

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while(t[j]!='\n'){putchar(t[++j]-'\05');}return 0;}